The Best Hyaluronic Acids
I am a skincare expert with a healthy obsession for hyaluronic acid, just like a wine connoisseur, I am a connoisseur of hyaluronic acids. If there was a profession for testing hyaluronic acid, I would be perfect for the job. I understand all the pitfalls and I certainly know how to get the best out of this brilliant ingredient.
I think it’s safe to say I have been obsessed with hyaluronic acid ever since I came across this wonder ingredient in 1998. It was more or less, love at first application. If you are not sure if you need hyaluronic acid in your routine check out my blog here How Do You Know If You Need Hyaluronic Acid? — Fiona Brackenbury
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a powerful moisture magnet and this is what catches everyone’s attention. Its ability to attract and retain water in the skin from the atmosphere like a sponge and hold 1000 times its own weight in moisture, means that hyaluronic acid can deliver impressive results. Its the only protein that is naturally present in your skin, unfortunately it depletes with age but can pretty much plump up the skin reducing the visible appearance of lines and wrinkles, think of the difference between a raisin and a grape and that is what hyaluronic acid can do.
Hyaluronic Acid In The Skin
After over the 30yrs of teaching skincare experts I always try to create analogies for skincare actives or parts of the skin. I do have a few for hyaluronic acid and one of my favourites is when describing what, where and how this natural protein works in the skin. Imagine a trifle with all its layers to help you visualise the skin. You have the cream, the custard, then the jelly and at the bottom is the sponge, imagine this is like the hyaluronic acid in the skin, take away a lot of the jelly and the trifle collapses. This is one of the roles of hyaluronic acid, large water molecules binding to the collagen and elastin to give support to the extracellular matrix (deeper layers of the skin).
Hyaluronic Acid Heals Wounds And Smooths Skin Texture
Hyaluronic acid helps maintain the moisture levels in the skin and aids tissue regeneration, keeping the skin hydrated limits inflammation build up and helps regulate tissue repair. Gorging the skin with hydration smoothes the skin texture and gives the skin a fresh bouncy complexion. When the skin is wounded the presence of the hyaluronic acid is increased and its serves a temporary support to the injured area and also increases cell proliferation and migration so the skin can repair the area.
What Is Sodium Hyaluronate?
This is where it gets confusing, you may have found a product that clearly on the front of the bottle says hyaluronic acid, yet when you looked at the ingredient listing its not there however sodium hyaluronate is. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid, which basically means it’s a derivative and therefore it’s smaller and able to penetrate deeper than traditional hyaluronic acid as this ingredient is notoriously large.
Which Should I Use Hyaluronic acid Or Sodium Hyaluronate?
Understanding where they work is the first piece in the jigsaw puzzle. Thanks to the sodium hyaluronate being smaller and able to penetrate deeper you can expect to see this ingredient in more anti-aging products. Hyaluronic acid on the other hand is renowned for being a larger molecule and will very often be used in super hydrating formulas.
My Tried And Trusted Hyaluronic Acid Serums
I have included some of my favourite hyaluronic acid serums, they all have brilliant formulations that have been created with the skin in mind to ensure it’s everything your skin needs.
Combining Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) and Peptides
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair
This has a patent till 2033, the salt of the hyaluronic acid combined with the exclusive peptides ensures you can target lines and wrinkles and hydration. Skin feels smoother, texture appears more refined and the skin tones is visibly more even. Estee Lauder do have a trademark on a complex which promotes the skin circadian rhythms, more of that to come, however needless to say disruption to this can lead to further damage to the cells. This can be used morning or evening. I really like it a night-time and I love even more that it’s my peptide and my hydrator. It’s worth considering if you want serum that does more than just one thing.
Combining Low and High Weight Hyaluronic Acid and Wound Healing Tiger Grass
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This serum combines the smaller molecule which will target the deeper levels and the larger molecule which provide immense softness and smoothness to the skin quickly. Combining these two powerful moisture magnets is fantastic however this also includes Vitamin B5 and madecassoside (component from centella asiatica) and together they bring help to support the skin’s natural wound healing and aid repair. Renowned for its ability to re-plump, repair and support the skin makes this a fantastic serum for if you’re suffering with any sensitized areas like the cheeks during the seasons and hormonal imbalances.
Combining Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides For A Strong Skin Barrier
Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster
This is the only product that I know of that is combining the water replenishing hyaluronic with components of the skin barrier. The intercellular lipids that form part of the skin barrier are comprised of 50% ceramides and 25% cholesterol, they are both essential for aiding water retention. If you have noticed your skin is constantly feeling tight and taught you will find my blog skin barrier 101 helpful for getting to the bottom of why the moisture in your skin keeps evaporating. The skin barrier strength and resistance deplete with age so don’t be surprised if you have noticed needing more of a formula like this during the winter or as you get older.
Combining Hyaluronic Acid and a Hyaluronic Acid Skin Coach So You Make Your Own Hyaluronic Acid
Medik8 HYDR8 B5™ INTENSE
This product is supercharged and brilliantly so. The natural hyaluronic acid levels found in our skin deplete over time, it’s believed that by the time we are 30 years old we will have 50% less hyaluronic acid therefore you start to see fine lines in your early 30’s. One of the reasons why I really like this formula is it’s like a hyaluronic skin coach, your skin can make hyaluronic acid and this is like giving your skin a gentle prod to ensure the skin doesn’t get lazy. Protecting the breakdown of the hyaluronic acid is something that this formula also helps to deliver long lasting deeply hydrating results.
Combining 15 Different Weights of Hyaluronic to Hydrate All Layers of the Skin
Niod Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Acid
This product combines a whopping 15 different forms of hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate making it the brand that uses the most and therefore, I am giving Niod the worthy title of Hyaluronic acid super charged serum. The power of this formula is having so many different weights which allows all the layers in the epidermis to be treated. The lower weights travel deeper and triggers wound healing and makes the skin firmer, plumper reduces the appearance of the deeper lines and wrinkles. The higher weights will stay on the surface, don’t be misguided to think they don’t deliver huge benefits, it’s these high weights that sit more on the surface and give that instant smoothing, hydrating and dewy look to the skin.
Combining Three Different Weights and Ceramides
Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid
This was one of the first hyaluronic acid serums I used and its where I discovered that combining different weights of hyaluronic acid, moisture quenching polysaccharides and skin barrier repairing ceramides can leave your skin with so much more hydration. The textures is gorgeous, it’s lightweight but not runny and there is no sign of stickiness which you can get from many hyaluronic acid serums. The peptide used is found in many firming, line smoothing and skin repairing products, it’s a signalling peptide which basically means it send messages to the cells and in this case it signals to relax the cells. Acetyl Dipeptide-1 cetyl ester instantly calms the skin and helps reduce any irritations and stress to the cells and aids the muscles to relax, which is especially good if you have expression lines.
Happy moisture surging and enjoy hyaluronic acid and all the benefits it brings.
Thank You For Reading
I hope you have enjoyed this blog, please let me know if you need any help with your skin.
Stay tuned for more blogs and follow me on social media for latest launches and more skin school.
Bye for now,
Fiona x
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